Skincare Ingredients to Use with Caution, Evidence Based Research


Sensitive skin should use fragrance free skincare products. Some ingredients compound may irritate the skin also some low molecular weight alcohols r remove natural oil from the skin and makes skin dry. Harsh scrubs can cause low level of inflammation to the outermost layer of skin that cannot be seen by naked eyes 

Skincare ingredients is so difficult to understand , some ingredients heal the skin , beneficial to skin while some other ingredients may harm the skin causing irritation, redness. 

This article explains why ''some ingredients never be combined'', how much this cause problem to skin, how to use some active ingredients with cautions, what has alternative to use instead of harsh ingredients combo.

The purpose of this article is to aware you to avoid some ingredients mixing and make better decision for skin health based on science proof research.
 

 What is meant by ''Avoid To Use Some Ingredients Combo''? 

 Skin layer act as barrier to protect skin from environmental stress, loss moisture level, Mix with product application.

Sensitive is already so sensitive and when you  apply products wrongly. Some ingredients may settle in skin but some cause irritation and disrupt barrier.

It's important to know about how ingredients pair works, how these ingredients work in skin biology, interact with skin biology  instead of just relay on ingredients lists and relay on that lists.

1.  Man made fragrances 

Why Use Carefully? 

Man made fragrances  doesn't support skin barrier support, hydration rather these manufactured fragrances disrupt barrier balance causing skin sensitivity and irritation.

Evidence

Some studies suggested that fragrances based products in sensitive skin or with compromised barrier roles, it increase the risk of irritation, allergic issues. 

Choose better  products 

 labeled ''fragrance free'' or those using natural calming botanicals (like chamomile or Centella) that are less likely to irritate.

2.  Alcohols with a lot of strength (dying solvents) 

Why Use Carefully?

 Isopropyl alcohol and diluted alcohol are used for instant dry and  structure but these alcohols  can remove the natural oil from skin and may weaken the skin barrier.

 Evidence 

Small biomolecules alcohols eventually increase the trasepidermal water loss(TEWL) means remove natural oils and may lead to the dry skin , irritation. 

 Choices For Alternatives

  • Glycerin
  • hyaluronic acid
  • ceramides provide hydration without barrier disruption.

 3.  Acids that over exfoliate (high concentrations of AHA and BHA)

 Why Use Carefully? 

AHA'S and BHA's For examples glycolic acid, salicylic acid.

can help improve texture however, excessive use or high concentrations can cause

  • irritation
  • sensitivity
  • barrier damage.

 Evidence

Research indicate that over exfoliation cause redness, itchiness, barrier disrupt but mild exfoliation with assured formulations can be effective to use 

How to Safely use? 

 Use lower concentrations and limit frequency (2-3 times per week), especially for sensitive skin

 4.  Strong Retinoids Without Support from Barriers

 Why Use Carefully?

 Retinoids are powerful anti-oxidants used to improve skin texture, reduce fine lines, wrinkles, acne. But due to potent efficiency it can make skin dry, irritated and if skin barrier is weak it can disrupt barrier.

Evidence

Some evidences shows because of retinoids strong potent , it increase the cell turnover process. if moisturizer doesn't apply after apply retinol, it can disrupt barrier temporary.

 Recommended Routine

 If using retinoids,

  • Use at night.
  • use gentle, mild cleanser
  • use ceramides, moisture retain ingredients based moisturizer

5.  Harsh Scrubs 

Why Use Carefully?

 Scrubs that contain large, rough particles (sugar crystals)can cause microtears in skin if these scrubs use continually. 

 Evidence

 Repeated mechanical abrasion can weaken barrier function and increase susceptibility to irritation.

 More lenient Approach

Chemical exfoliation with mild strengths acid can safe to use and can easy  to tolerate depend on skin.

How to know, what ingredients is right for skin?

 Skin differs greatly,

  •  Sensitive or dry skin

 could profit from

  • Barrier supporting ingredients (ceramides, glycerin)
  • Very little scent
  • Actives with low concentrations

 Take care when,

  • high levels of alcohol
  • abrasive acids
  • High strength retinoids

  • Acne Prone or Oily skin 

 could profit from

  • Use Salicylic Acid
  • Emollients like squalane is suitable for acne skin

 Take care when,

  • Heavy occlusive
  • Oils that clog pores or are sugary 


  • Combination Skin Types 

 Prior to full use, 

  • focus on formulations that are balanced and patch testing.

What Dermatologists Discuss about Active Ingredient Combination?

Simultaneously use multiple active ingredients of high strength can make skin barrier stress which lead to inflammation. Interpret by Director of Cosmetic Dermatology Joyce Imahiyerobo-IP from Cornell University, She's specialized in surgical, cosmetic dermatology.

The skin may have trouble balancing itself when several potent actives are used together. This may result in: 

  • a temporary break in the barrier
  • Anxiety and redness
  •  sensations of burning or stinging sensitivity that has grown over time 

In some cases, combining certain actives may also reduce how well each ingredient performs. Using many different exfoliating products simultaneously or use them with retinoids in skin, can difficult for skin to tolerate them. 

Why Combining Ingredients is important ?

Ingredients mixing can increase the effectiveness but some ingredient combo can irritate the skin. It's important to understand ingredients work  interact with skin.

 Ingredient mixing is best for skin when they,

  • Introduced gradually
  • When used at the right strengths
  • paired with products that help maintain the barrier, like moisturizers
  • incorporated into regimens that give the skin time to adjust


This section explains why ingredient combo can maintain skin barrier, increase effectiveness and how safely use some active ingredients together.

Use ingredients together can make visible positive results but some ingredients can irritate skin. 

Consistency is matter in skincare, skincare needs right efficiency, mix right ingredients together to helps maintain healthy, youthful skin. 

1. Retinol+ Vitamin C

How they act?


  • Vitamin C is known as Ascorbic Acid, is anti-oxidants that know for it's supporting skin brightness, improve skin collagen, fades spots, improve skin texture.
  • Vitamin A is known as Retinoids a powerful anti-oxidants. It works by increasing skin cells turnover process, helps remove fine lines, wrinkles, reduce premature aging.

Why Retinol +Vitamin C combination Can irritate?

Because bot are strong, powerful active ingredients. Using both together at once can irritate skin, makes skin sensitive or dry

Both works better when used in alterative routines because Retinol works best at natural pH and Vitamin C works best at low pH conditions.

A routine, safer approach 

  • morning

Vitamin C in the morning

  • Night Routine use
 Retinol 

Use the at different routines helps, In a day it  support protection from antibacterial and at night it support skin renew process without stress barrier. 

 2. Retinol+ Benzoyl Peroxide

 How they act?

Benzoyl Peroxide contain anti-inflammatory properties, it kill bacteria that can cause bacteria. 

Retinol helps improve uneven texture, reduce fine lines, wrinkles, acne, premature aging.

 Why combining them can be problematic?

Benzoyl peroxide is an oxidizing agent and can deactivate retinol when layered together.

 The likelihood of dryness, peeling, and redness is also increased when both are used concurrently.

 A routine, safer approach

  • morning

Benzoyl peroxide in the morning (for acne treatment)

  • At night, 

Retinol 

Important to know that. 

To avoid any irritation or reduce irritation use both ingredients at alternative days. If you have acne prone skin or sensitive skin.


3.  Niacinamide+ Vitamin C

 How they act?

  • Niacinamide is a form of B3 Vitamin. It helps fades open pores, improve uneven skin tone. 
  • Vitamin C is known as Ascorbic acid, have anti-oxidants properties helps to brighten skin tone, fades spots.
 Why some people can get irritation from these ingredients?

Some skin types can get irritation from these ingredients combo, issue is some skin is tolerated to active ingredients while some skin is not well tolerated to active ingredients . Besides the fact that, These two ingredients can safely combined by modern formulation. These ingredients can still caustic in some skin types when use in high concentration.

A routine, safer approach 

  • morning

Vitamin C in the morning

  • at night

 Niacinamide at night

It's important to be cautious , it's better to use both ingredients separately even both ingredients combination works effectively.

4. Retinol+ AHAs, BHAs (Salicylic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid)

 How they act? 

  • AHAs, BHAs exfoliants get rid of dead skin cells, helps get  better skin texture.
  • Retinol known as powerful anti-oxidant helps increase the cell turnover process, improve fine lines, wrinkles, reduce premature aging.

 Why using them together can strain the skin barrier? 

Retinols and exfoliants increase the skin cell turn over process. Use both together can disturb skin barrier because of two active ingredients . Long term it can led to skin dryness, itchiness, sensitivity . It's better to use them separately.

 A routine, safer approach 

  • 2-3 nights per week, use AHAs or BHAs.
  • Use retinol on separate nights

 It can disrupt skin barrier or compromise skin barrier if use in alternative routines.

5.  Glycolic Acid/Lactic Acid with Salicylic Acid

 How they act?

  • Salicylic acid work best on oily skin , clogged pores, helps remove blackheads.
  •  Glycolic  acid, lactic acid improve skin texture, disappear discoloration, skin dullness.
How using multiple exfoliants can be ineffective?

Using more tan one exfoliants can weaken skin barrier, removes natural oil, causing irritation, breakouts in skin. This mostly happens in acne prone and sensitive skin tones.

A routine, safer approach

  • For oily skin and acne prone skin salicylic acid is best to use.
  •  Glycolic acid and lactic acid is best for skin dullness issue, skin texture.
  •  Use them at  alternative routines.


How to safely use them in skincare routine?
  • Use one active ingredient at a time.
  • Apply moisturizer to support skin barrier
  • To avoid irritation don't use too much .
  • Sunscreen is important if use active ingredients in routines.
  • Patch test is important before use any new product.
Frequently Asked Questions 

Are all natural ingredients harmless?

No. it doesn't, not all  natural ingredients are safe. Some  essential oils can be irritated to some people. Always patch test.

Can I use multiple actives simultaneously?

Usually not. Start with only one active ingredient all time. Irritation can occur by using strong active ingredients together 

Is every perfume harmful?

 No. Mild and hypoallergenic ingredients based formulation is harmless but some synthetic fragrance can be irritated for skin.

Can skin irritation caused by all acids?

Necessarily not. 0.5-2% low concentration salicylic acid can't be irritated. Exfoliants can't be irritated if used them correctly.

 Is irritation symbol of  indicative of product effectiveness? 

No.  Stress Skin barrier can cause  burning, redness, peeling off skin, it doesn't indicate product effectiveness.

How frequently ought to actives be used?

This is dependent on tolerance and type of skin. If the skin remains calm, most people benefit from starting 2-3 times per week and gradually increasing.


In the End

When use actives always makes sure to wear your sunscreen and reapply it after 2 hour's . Sunscreen Benefits This article explains sunscreen benefits with dermatologist opinions.

Thank You

Hina Shoukat

Articles written by Hina Shoukat, a Chemistry graduate with interest in skincare science and cosmetic ingredients.”

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